Riga

56.9496° N, 24.1052° E.

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Latvia’s capital, Riga, is today just as vibrant as it was in the past. Now known as “The Baltic Hub,” it is easy to see why. Before Soviet occupation in 1940, the city was one of the most important ports in Northern Europe because of its proximity to The Baltic Sea. At one stage the city was so influential that Napoleon described it as a “suburb of London, ”as it was a major trader with England and France.

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3 min read

population

637,089 popuation (2018)

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will visit again

Peculiarities

Black Balsam, Dill and the Latvian flag were things we came across perpetually during the time we spent in Rīga. Hardly enduring the taste of dill, no it was ok, just a little dillemma. The presence of the flag evoked in us simultaneously a feeling of suspicion towards the patriotism but also a sense of familiarity by sharing resemblance with the Austrian flag. It is one of the oldest flags still in use since 1280, just Denmark’s has been around longer.

Black Balsam, on the other hand, was especially tasty in a warm drink, somewhat like glühwein. The traditional liqueur is made using 24 different plants, flowers, buds, juices, roots, oils and berries prepared in oak barrels. It is considered to be an excellent cold remedy, and according to legend when Catherine the Great became ill during a visit to Latvia, she was cured after drinking it.

Katharina die Grosse

Catherine the great with a glass of balck balsam. (please don't sue me)

The days were short and dark at this time of the year. However, the streets were decorated and adorned with lights and Christmas trees. It was gleamingly beautiful how the tiny lights together composed a symphony of warm light and light the night. Nevertheless, the promise of 20 hours daylight at midsummer makes me want to come again and see for myself the lovely golden light by which artists have been and still are obsessed about.

Seeking shelter in the darker seasons, we found us in the enormous zeppelin hangars left behind by the German army after World War I. Riga's Central Market is one of the biggest markets in Europe. Uncountable pavilions are housed in these stalls telling a story of past times, selling products at a low price from far away lands.

riga

Our Tourguide next to The Bremen town musicians.

St. Petri Church

St. Petri Church from below on a foggy day.

Transportation

Getting around in Riga is easy for public transportation service is provided by buses, trams, trolley-buses, and minibuses. Rigas public transportation works from about 5 a.m. every morning and up until shortly before midnight. The tickets can easily be bought at Narvesen shops which are scattered all across the city.

One trip – 1.15€
Two trips – 2.3€
Five trips – 5.75€
Ten trips – 10.9€

one trip means one boarding – if you have to change you need to register a new ticket.

24 hours – 5€
Three days – 10€
Five days – 15€

Tip: the bus rides as I experienced were very shaky, so hold yourself onto anything you can grab.With the app taxify, you can quickly get a taxi wherever you are, it works like uber, at a reasonable price.

Picture of Simon

Simon - in our first accommodation.

Picture of Goldie

Goldie.

Food

In general, the food served in Riga was not very vegan-friendly, as Pork is featured heavily on Latvian menus. But even more so we enjoyed the Sauerkraut and Pickles we purchased at the Central Market where a whole hangar is dedicated to fruits, vegetables, a vast selection of pickles and sauerkraut I kid you not heaps of crunchy sauerkraut. You will discover all sorts of pickles including carrots, tomatoes, garlic, mushrooms, green beans, cauliflower and of course cucumbers flavoured with a variety of herbs and spices. Especially delicious was whole pickled garlic. Exceptional flavour explosion.

All the food we got at the Central Market. Carrots, Potatoes, a slice of a pumpkin, pickled garlic and lots more stuff.

Stacked Pickles at the central market.

Our most favourite bar to enjoy the evenings was Omas. It has a nice and cosy vibe with comfortable sofas all around to launch, drink, talk and party on different floors at the weekend (did not witness this yet). Saturday night we spent at Kaņepes Kultūras centrs the music was refreshing to let go of the day and forget oneself in ecstatic dance. Prices for drinks were ok about 3€ which for Riga is reasonable to cheap compared to the old town centre.

At "fat pumpkin" one of the advertised vegan Restaurants the dishes we chose were a little tasteless but extra oily. I hope they will find their way to good vegan food, but I definitely want to come back for a hot chocolate.

A delicious Brunch was served at MiiT Coffee where it was also possible to work and enjoy a cold, gloomy morning in a pleasant atmosphere.

pickels

Stacked Pickles at the central market.

People

Some of the Latvians seem cold and unfriendly especially most of the waitresses, but then there are the ones who are surprisingly outgoing and make your day brighter by small interactions, I shared a beautiful moment with a family when they observed me taking pictures at the central market. I showed them what Simon and I had photographed. They enjoyed the show, the two kids were very enthusiastic, and even though we could not understand each other, we communicated with our hearts.

Goldie taking a picture at the central market

Taking a picture of an exchange at the central market.

Find your way

Here are the places I found to be most memorable.

blue: sights seeing

green: food, coffee and work

orange: food, drinks and party